Showing posts with label crawlspace. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crawlspace. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Complete CrawlSpace Restoration

This crawlspace had it all. Water, mold, wood rot, bugs, falling insulation, sump pump failure, and condensation. We restored this crawlspace back to a clean bill of health. Give American Basement Solutions a call for all your crawl space restoration needs..
1-877-409-2837.


Share/Bookmark

Muncie, IN Waterproofing & Foundation Repair

Basement and Crawlspace Waterproofing Company in Muncie, IN

American Basement Solutions offers all of our basement waterproofing, crawlspace encapsulation, and foundation repair services to the great city of Muncie, Indiana (47307, 47304, 47308).

If you are experiencing a wet crawlspace, a leaky, damp basement, or a sinking foundation, you have come to the right place. You can trust American Basement Solutions to give you the highest quality service at an affordable price. Below is a list of our repair services for Muncie, IN:

Crawlspace Drainage & Encapsulation Systems
Basement and Crawlspace Waterproofing Systems
Sump Pumps & Battery Backup Systems
Crawlspace and Basement Mold Removal
Floor Joist, Sill Plate, and Center Beam Repair
Unlevel and Sagging Floor Repair
Foundation Settlement & Crack Repair

Visit our website @ www.americanbasementsolutions.com for more info.

Muncie located in Delaware County, is best known as the home of Ball State University and the birthplace of the Ball Corporation (a company famous for making glass canning jars). The city population, as of the 2010 Census, is 70,085. Muncie, Indiana offers a vast variety of entertainment, dining, culture and museums and is known for its big city service at small town prices. The community of Muncie is dear to the hearts of the Ralph family and we look forward to serving the people for many years to come.

For all your basement, crawlspace, and foundation repairs, give us a call @ 1-877-409-2837.


Share


Share/Bookmark

Carmel, IN Waterproofing & Foundation Repair

Basement and Crawlspace Waterproofing Company in Carmel, IN

American Basement Solutions offers all of our basement and crawlspace waterproofing and foundation repair services to the great city of Carmel, Indiana (46032, 46033, 46082).

If you are experiencing a damp crawlspace, a leaky, wet basement, or a settling foundation, you have come to the right place. You can trust American Basement Solutions to give you the highest quality service at an affordable price. Below is a list of our repair services for Carmel, Indiana:

Crawlspace Drainage & Encapsulation Systems
Basement & Crawlspace Waterproofing Systems
Sump Pumps & Battery Backup Systems
Crawlspace & Basement Mold Remediation
Floor Joist, Sill Plate, and Center Beam Repair
Unlevel or Sagging Floor Repair
Foundation Crack & Settlement Repair

Visit our website @ www.americanbasementsolutions.com for more info.

Carmel, located in Hamilton County just north of Indy, has a population of 79,191, and is considered one of the most affluent communities in the Midwest. Carmel, Indiana is a real center of activities with the extremely popular CarmelFest every July 4th and the prestigious Carmel International Arts Festival. Carmel is also home to The Palladium at the Center for Performing Arts, a 1,600-seat, 151,000 sq ft state-of-the-art concert hall. The community of Carmel is truly dear to the hearts of the Ralph Family as we look to continue to serve the fine people of this great city for years to come.

For all your basement, crawlspace, and foundation repairs, give us a call @ 1-877-409-2837.


Share


Share/Bookmark

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Crawlspace Waterproofing Testimonials

After updating our large reference list that we give to each and every homeowner, I decided to post some of our recent crawlspace testimonials here on the blog. I hope it helps in your search for a quality basement and crawlspace waterproofing contractor.

"I am very pleased with the crawlspace and downspout renovation. May I extend my most sincere compliments to Brandon and the whole crew. They were highly skilled and very competent. Brandon is an outstanding communicator. He made certain we understood every step of the installation and how it works." - Phil D., Greenfield, IN



"Each member of your company were gentlemen, both inside and under our house. They worked together well. Tammy 'Everything is GREAT at ABS', was always very professional and friendly on the phone." Richard H., Shelbyville, IN



"Thank you for coming to speak with our church property committee (Larry). Your installers were very professional and friendly. You solved our problem completely!" - Larry G., Greenfield, IN



"Aaron and the crew were extremely courteous and friendly. The job was completed in a timely manner. Some work, to get water away from the house, was performed even though it was not a part of the contracted job. This additional work was done at no additional charge. We are very satisfied!" - Carl H., Bloomington, IN



"Across the board, I am satisfied with the work performed by American Basement Solutions. There were several companies competing for my business, but your responsiveness, follow-up, and cooperation set you apart from the rest. I will use you again in the future, and will recommend your services to others." Joe G., Franklin, IN



"Your behavior spoke so much louder than your words. I am so impressed with everyone I came into contact with. Thanks so much." Pat M., Edinburgh, IN



"We really appreciated the thorough job everyone did. When a problem developed after the initial work was completed, Aaron, Daniel, & the crew (after some discussion) "went the extra mile" to make things right. Still further, when I called the next day for advice about how to get the interior piers adjusted to support the floor joists, they came back again (same day) to make it better. We would not hesitate to recommend your company in the future. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!." - Mike S., Martinsville, IN



"My entire experience with ABS was exceptional, from the estimate of what I needed or didn't need to have done to the crewleader keeping me informed of the works progress. ABS is very customer friendly and above all HONEST. Thank you for an excellent job!" - James T, Shelbyville, IN



"Work was done in a timely manner and the crew was very helpful and professional" - AJ Wheeler., Madison, IN



"We were blessed to have found your company and hope that we can refer others to you" - Hershel W., Sadieville, Ky


If you are interested in having the same quality work as the satisfied customers above, GIVE US A CALL @ 1-877-409-2837.
Larry Ralph Jr

Share/Bookmark

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Do not spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls



One of the fastest growing crawlspace industries is spraying open cell or closed cell foam on crawlspace foundation walls. While I agree that foam is the most efficient type of insulation, it is rarely applicable in below-grade crawlspace environments. WHY, you might ask?. In the Midwest, crawlspaces are usually a below-grade foundation type. The foundation of a below-grade crawlspace is almost always susceptible to water and moisture intrusion from groundwater. So what, you might ask? Well, Spray foam insulation traps water and moisture in the block wall or between the wall and the foam. This moisture has nowhere to go but UP, due to the capillary action (wicking) of moisture on a foundation. Up above the foundation is a sill plate, floor joist, bandboard, and subfloor. These are all wood components that are susceptible to wood rot and mold growth when the moisture content in the wood rises.

We are in homes on a daily basis that had their foundation sprayed years earlier and now are paying thousands of dollars in structural wood repair. Most wood rot in a crawlspace is noticeable early and most of the outside wood structure is saved by some type of moisture control system. When the walls and wood are covered with spray foam, no one can detect the problem early. Homeowners do not find out until the house starts sinking and and all of the plates and joists must be replaced. The spray foam will speed up the wood rot process.

The picture above and below shows wood that has rotted behind the spray foam.

Just to be clear, every crawlspace has different amounts of moisture intrusion and some with lower levels may never have wood rot occur. However, moisture intrusion can increase over a period of years as new development pushes water into older areas. So if you still choose to foam your walls, just know, you are always susceptible to wood rot.

In below grade crawlspaces, the proper way to insulate is to encapsulate the crawlspace and seal off outside air from entering the crawlspace. Next, condition the crawlspace. Rigid Foam board can also be installed to the walls for added insulation. For more information, see my post "How to insulate a crawl space - Encapsulate and Condition"

While the title to this post seems to suggest that you should never spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls, that is not always the case. Many solid, poured foundation walls are not as susceptible to water intrusion; therefore, they could be insulated with spray foam. See my post "Insulating above-grade crawlspaces - spray foam the walls" if you have a BONE -DRY (above-grade or solid poured foundation) crawlspace.

If you need professional advice on how to insulate your crawlspace, give us a call @ 1-877-409-2837 or SIGN UP ONLINE for a FREE CONSULTATION.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr

Crawlspace Insulating Series:
Cold Floors above a Crawl Space
Do not use fiberglass insulation in a crawl space
Foundation Vents are causing higher heating costs
How to insulate crawlspaces - Encapsulate and Condition
Insulating above-grade crawlspaces - spray foam the walls

Share/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Insulating above-grade crawlspaces - spray foam the walls


For those who do not know, a crawlspace above grade refers to a crawlspace with a ground floor that is level with the outside ground level. In many instances, these crawlspaces can be considerably dry. Since many crawlspace above grade are somewhat dry, the best method of insulating is to encapsulate with plastic and apply spray foam to the walls and exterior wood framing. I am a large advocate of the foam method of insulating; however, only when the conditions are optimal (a dry crawlspace). The biggest mistake a homeowner can make when insulating a crawlspace is to spray foam the foundation wall when it is wet or damp. The foam will trap the moisture in the foundation allowing it to rot the structural components such as the sill plates, floor joist ends, and bandboard. For more information on whether you should spray foam your crawlspace walls, see my post "Do not spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls".

The proper method to insulating a DRY crawlspace is to first encapsulate the ground moisture and seal off outside air. This is achieved by installing 20 mil plastic over the ground floor and up the walls by at least 12". (Warning: Encapsulation liners should normally be installed within 3" of the top of the foundation wall, but since the crawlspace foundation is dry and we will be applying spray foam to the walls, there will be no need to.) All the seams of the liner should be taped, and the wall plastic should be fastened and adhered to the foundation wall. Once the encapsulation liner is installed, all of the foundation vents should be insulated and sealed. Sealing the foundation vents prevents cold, freezing air from entering the crawlspace in the winter (cold air still drafts in even when the vents are closed); and hot, humid air from entering in the summer. This is by far the most important step in insulating a crawlspace, and if you didn't do anything else, you could look at 10% - 15% energy savings in a fully vented crawlspace by just encapsulating. Once encapsulation is finished, the crawlspace can be conditioned.

The next step would be to hire a contractor to spray the interior crawlspace foundation walls and wood framing with closed cell foam. They would spray from the bottom of the foundation wall covering some of the plastic up to the subfloor and between the floor joists.

This is by far the best method to insulating a dry, above-grade crawlspace; however, this requires hiring 2 separate contractors that will probably try to talk a homeowner out of using the other contractor. The encapsulation company will want to just encapsulate the crawlspace and add foam board to the walls. This system will work just fine, but it isn't the most effecient. The foam contractor will want to just insulate the walls and throw down a vapor barrier, which still leaves the vents open to bring in cold air in the winter, and does not prevent all moisture from evaporating into the structure. A homeowner will have to be insistent on this exact process when speaking with both contractors.

As I said before, this process will only work in an already dry crawlspace which anymore seems like a rarity. If there are ANY signs of moisture at all, the insulating process will be completely different. Please refer to crawlspace insulating series for more information.

Check out this video on insulating a basement wall with spray foam.

If you need professional advice on how to insulate your crawlspace, give us a call @ 1-877-409-2837 or SIGN UP ONLINE for a FREE CONSULTATION.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.

Crawlspace Insulating Series:
Cold Floors above a Crawl Space
Do not use fiberglass insulation in a crawl space
Foundation Vents are causing higher heating costs
Do not spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls
How to insulate crawlspaces - Encapsulate and Condition

Share/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Do not use fiberglass insulation in a crawl space

Insulating a crawlspace with fiberglass has been the most common insulation approach in crawl spaces for decades. The floors or the walls of the crawlspace were insulated because the crawl is cold in the winter due to the open or closed vents. This cold air causes cold floors, freezing water pipes, and higher heating costs. While it does assist in insulating, it is not efficient at all. Fiberglass in a crawlspace joist system is very loose and cold air can pass up through and around it. Since fiberglass insulation is only effective in a closed cavity where air cannot pass through it, it does not function properly in between a floor joist whether or not the paper side is up or down. Installing the fiberglass on the crawlspace foundation walls has the same inefficiency because air can pass in between the pieces.


I just touched on why fiberglass is inefficient, but now I want to explain why I HATE fiberglass insulation in a crawlspace. Plain and simple, fiberglass insulation is mold candy. Fiberglass is the worst choice for a below grade crawlspace. Crawlspaces are generally damp and humid, and since they are ventilated, the outside air is always different from the inside air causing moisture
to condensate on nearly every surface. The insulation absorbs the moisture from the air and the ground like a sponge. The fiberglass saturates with moisture raising the moisture content in the wood and causing the insulation to fall. When the moisture content in the wood rises, mold starts to grow and wood rot occurs. The resin of the insulation and the paper face is made of organic material and is what building scientists consider to be "mold candy". In other words, mold loves to grow on the organic material in the insulation. Also, fiberglass has next to nil insulating value when it is wet.

Crawl Spaces SHOULD be insulated but NOT with fiberglass. According to building scientist and independent organizations such as Advanced Energy and Habitat for Humanity, the right way to deal with a crawl space is to seal off the ground floor and foundation with a durable vapor barrier and seal off the outside air completely. The next step would be to condition the crawlspace. Once this is done the crawlspace is just like another part of the building (i.e. basement). Now the walls could be insulated with foam board or spray foam depending on the outside grade of the crawlspace. In many cases, insulation will not even be needed because the cold air that is being sucked in through the vents will be sealed off. See my post "How to insulate crawlspaces" for more information.

It is a rare occasion that I am in a crawlspace with fiberglass where the fiberglass isn't wet, condensating, moldy, or falling down. I have a database of photos to prove it. Just look at some of them in the slideshow above. If you still want to insulate your crawlspace with fiberglass, please comment and tell me why.

If you need professional advice on how to insulate your crawlspace, give us a call @ 1-877-409-2837 or SIGN UP ONLINE for a FREE CONSULTATION.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a foundation inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr

Crawlspace Insulating Series:
Cold Floors above a Crawl Space
Foundation Vents are causing higher heating costs
Do not spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls
How to insulate crawlspaces - Encapsulate and Condition
Insulating above-grade crawlspaces - spray foam the walls

Share/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Cold Floors above my Crawl Space


Have you ever wondered why your feet freeze to your bathroom floor? If you live in an older home, have you ever felt a cold draft come up through you hardwood flooring? Did you install carpet over your hardwood floors because they were too cold in the winter? Ever wonder why your floors above your crawlspace are so cold in the winter? At this point you are probably expecting an answer on how to fix your cold floors. The answer IS NOT what you are expecting. DO NOT insulate your floor. Keep reading, it gets better.

Your crawlspace is vented to the outside air, and in the winter (in the north anyways) the outside air is very cold. In the North, a homeowner is “supposed” to close his vents in the winter. Many homeowners do not know they are supposed to close their vents or they just simply forget. If the vents are not closed, freezing cold air will enter the crawl space and work against the heating system all winter long. This will cause the floors to reach arctic temperatures. Even if you close your vents, you are still drafting a lot of cold air through them. The vent is just a thin sheet of metal overlapping one another. There is not a foundation vent on the market that seals completely and none of them are insulated.

So what is a homeowner to do? You have several options. If you are a smart, energy conscious homeowner, you will seal off the outside air, insulate your vents, and encapsulate your crawlspace. This can provide energy savings of up to 10%-20%, not to mention bring your floors to a comfortable temperature. Encapsulation also will dry out your floor framing, help prevent bug infestations, and improve indoor air quality. See my post “How to insulate crawlspaces – Encapsulate and Condition” for more information.

For an example, let's say your upstairs floors are cold. Your windows on the main floor are open about 7" allowing all this cold air to come into the main floor. Would you install fiberglass insulation in your 2nd story floors and leave your windows open OR would you close all the windows. What seems to make the most sense, it's the same in the crawlspace. The difference is that you shouldn't seal your vents without encapsulating your crawlspace to seal out all the ground and foundation moisture.

The most common but INCORRECT method has been to install fiberglass insulation in the floor. Fiberglass insulation will sweat in the summer and absorb all of the moisture that is in the air of the crawlspace. When the insulation is wet, it has no insulating value. This insulation will also cause mold to grow and wood to rot. See my post “Do not use fiberglass insulation in crawlspaces” for more reasons why.

If you are looking for a cheaper and effective insulation method, you could install 2” rigid foam board along the crawlspace perimeter walls and CLOSE your vents in the winter (like you were supposed to). Just know, this IS NOT the PERMANENT SOLUTION. The only permanent solution to cold floors is to encapsulate the crawl space. We can install the foam board as a first step toward encapsulation.

For more information on preventing cold floors above your crawlspace, visit the Crawslpace Encapsulation page on our website or for a FREE EVALUATION call us at 1-877-409-2837.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.

Crawlspace Insulating Series:
Cold Floors above a Crawl Space
Do not use fiberglass insulation in a crawl space
Foundation Vents are causing higher heating costs
Do not spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls
How to insulate crawlspaces - Encapsulate and Condition
Insulating above-grade crawlspaces - spray foam the walls

Share/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Monday, October 19, 2009

7 steps to a Dry a Damp, Wet Crawlspace


A wet or damp crawlspace is never an easy situation. Luckily, we have compiled some steps to help the average homeowner bring your home environment into comfort, security and compliance. The steps are a general rule, but your crawlspace may require only some or all of the steps to achieve a dry, healthy crawl space.

1. Downspout Extensions
2. Sump Pit and Pump Installed
3. Internal Perimeter Drainage Installed
4. Vapor Barrier Installed
5. AmeriBrite Encapsulation Installed
6. Crawlspace Conditioning
7. Dehumidification

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph
Share/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Sagging Floors above a crawl space


While the only true way to know why the floors above your crawlspace are sagging or sinking is to have it professionally inspected, I am going to outline a couple of the most common problems I see out in the field.

  1. Floors are bouncy - This usually is noticed when walking across a floor, you feel the floor shake or you see cabinets start to shake or make noise as you walk. This is usually a sign that the floor joists are under-sized or over spanned from the beam to the outside wall, or the floor joists are damaged from wood rot or termite damage. In either case, additional beam support is needed in the middle of the floor joist span to properly support the floor.
  2. Floors are sloping to the center of home - This is usually noticed when you walk from an outside wall to the center of the house. To know for sure, drop a marble along the outside wall and see if it rolls to the middle of the house. This is the result of some type of support problem with the center beam. The support columns or piers could have settled. The shims between the beam and column could have deteriorated or the beam itself could be deteriorating. Irregardless of the reason, the problem can be fixed. The beam can be raised and restored back to it's original position. This may requre a new beam, new piers, or new shims.
  3. Floors are separating from baseboard trim - While this can occur along any wall, the most common occurrence will be along the exterior perimeter walls. On the outside walls, this is most always a problem with the sill plate. Another sign of a problem is with windows and outside doors sticking. The sill plate or the end of the joist sitting on the plate is most likely rotting or damaged by termites. The most common repair would be to replace or sister the joist, lift the home, and replace the sill plate. This will usually always bring the home to it's original position and snug the floor up to the trim.
  4. Floors are wavy. - Unfortunately, this could possibly be several different problems. If you're lucky, it might only be that the center beam is over spanned between support piers causing it to sag up and down throughout the center of the home. This can be addressed by adding additional support piers or columns. On some occasions, the floor joists could be installed incorrectly with the crown of the joist up on one joist and down on the next. A couple of the joist could have had a knot in them and are now cracked causing a few of them to sag. Irregardless of whats causing this, we can repair your floors and bring them to their original position.
Most of these problems stated above are seen in homes built with conventional building standards over the past 50 years. Most of the problems and solutions above are related to the failure of the wood framing. In some cases, the foundation could be settling or sinking which requires a whole different type of solution. In homes 80 years or older, different techniques and solutions may be required to support the floor. Also in older homes, the floors might not have been built "level" to begin with. Having said all this, DO NOT ATTEMPT to fix your floors without a clear understanding of what is causing them to fail. Call an expert to give you a free evaulation and estimate. Give us a call @ 1-877-409-2837 for all your floor support needs.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.
Share/Save/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Puddles of water in crawl space

Many homeowners are unaware of the amount of water that puddles or floods their crawl space after heavy rains. Before many crawlspace inspections, I seem to get the same response, "I've never seen any water standing in the crawl space, only dampness". When I explain to them that I saw pooling and puddling of water or signs of water in their crawlspace, they seem to remember an occasion when it might have had a couple of puddles. Typically, they completely forget about that one time they saw water because they didn't think it was a problem or they only seen puddles on one occasion.

Many homeowners are unable to inspect their crawlspace themselves, so they rely on plumbers, HVAC, Pest Control Operators, contractors, family, and friends to go down there and look for them. Since this might only happen once a year or more, there might not be any standing water down there at that time. To really know if a crawlspace has a water problem, one needs to inspect their crawlspace immediately following a 3" or more rain. Since they can't inspect that soon after a rain, the homeowner is left with an inaccurate assessment of their crawlspace.

The reason a homeowner should inspect their crawlspace immediately after a hard rain is because the water might not puddle or pool very long if they have a porous soil. Water can disguise itself under 6" of pea gravel backfill or sand, so a homeowner needs to pull back the gravel or sand to inspect properly. Water in some crawls might puddle for hours, days, weeks, or even months. It really depends on the soil and the water table.

Regardless of how long the water stands, any water even for a couple of hours is harmful to the environment of the home. The water will typically saturate the entire ground floor even after it recedes back into the ground. The dampness of the soil after the water recedes will try to evaporate into the atmosphere. A vapor barrier is typically installed to block some of the moisture from evaporating, but even a vapor barrier does not block moisture seeping up from the outside perimeter(where the water comes in) or from the seams of the plastic. If a vapor barrier is installed and water pools up under it, the water will run on top of the plastic. When water pools on top of the vapor barrier, then all of the water must evaporate into the structural components of the crawlspace. The evaporation of moisture into the structural components can lead to mold growth and wood decay. See my post on wood rot for more info on the harmful effects of excess moisture in a crawlspace. In the picture above you can start to see the damage done to the beam by the puddles of water.

The only remedy to puddling or pooling water in a crawlspace is a properly installed drainage system and encapsulation system. For more information on installing a drainage system or encapsulation system in your crawlspace, visit our website @ www.americanbasementsolutions.com/crawlspace-repair.html.

Call us at 1-877-409-2837 to setup a Free Inspection or SIGN UP ONLINE

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.
Share/Save/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Center Beam Rot Damage in Crawlspace

This is a picture of a center beam "girder" that is rotting and sinking down over the block pier columns. This is about an 1 1/2" drop over the pier and closer to a 2 1/2" settlement in between the piers where the beam is sagging. The homeowner first noticed the problem several years ago when the baseboard trim started to separate from the floor. The problem gradually worsened as the doors began to stick and not close properly, and the drywall began to crack above the doorways and along the ceiling of the hallway. You might be wondering why this happened.

In crawlspaces, excess moisture from groundwater leakage, ground moisture, and outside ventilation leads to mold growth. Most wood decay fungi grow only on wood with a high moisture content, usually 20 percent or above. Decay fungi are living organisms which send minute threads called "hyphae" through damp wood, taking their food from the wood as they grow. Gradually, the wood is decomposed and its strength is lost. Such damage is often inconspicuous until its final stages, and in a few instances homeowners have suddenly found floors breaking through or major settlement in the floor structure. The only method of prevention is to dry the crawlspace and lower the moisture content in the wood.

Repairing the center beam of a home is NOT a do it yourself project. There are many things to consider when replacing a center beam, and there are certain risks that can be devastating if proper procedures are not performed. Many people have been injured badly by jack posts kicking out and similar support devices failing. Please consider the savings of a couple hundred dollars that may cost your life or your home. The installation usually involves installing temporary sectional beams right along side of the original failing beam. The temporary beams should be lifted just enough to relax the original center beam so that it can be removed and a new one can be installed in it's place. I have seen many repairs of scabbing a new 2X10 on both sides of the beam and sandwiching them together with anchor bolts. This repair might help in the prevention of further settlement, but IT WILL NOT bring the home to it's proper position. It is like a band-aid on an serious injury. Please give us a call 1-877-409-2837 for a FREE ESTIMATE on replacing your center beam or visit our website at www.americanbasementsolutions.com.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.
Share/Save/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Monday, June 1, 2009

Subwoofer speakers in crawlspace - Infinite Baffle system


I've seen alot of different things in crawlspaces over the years, but this would have to be a first. Suprisingly after doing a little research, these infinite baffle subwoofer systems are becoming quite popular. Many people are utilizing their attics, cellars, basements, and crawlspaces to install these subwoofer systems.

The homeowner gave me some informational links on the system. Here are some good Audio/Video forums if you are interested. The first one is almost entirely for infinite baffle sub setups.

http://ibsubwoofers.proboards.com/index.cgi

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/


The reason we were called out was to help with the moisture problem in the crawlspace. The homeowner was concerned with ground moisture and outside ventilation damaging his subwoofer system. This is just another reason why a crawlspace should be encapsulated!

If you are in need to dry your crawlspace to install an infinite baffle system, give us a call @ 1-877-409-2837 or visit our website: www.americanbasementsolutions.com

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.
Share/Save/Bookmark

Share/Bookmark

Friday, May 29, 2009

Rust on Ducts, Pipes, & Beams in Crawlspace


Humid and wet crawlspace environments results in rust on ducts, pipes, post jacks, and beams made of metal. The moisture in the wet crawlspace will evaporate in to the atmosphere causing the relative humidity to increase. This humidity increase will rust the ducts and pipes over a period of time. Ironically, even a dry crawlspace floor can have potential problems with rust as well. Most crawlspace are vented through the foundation to allow air in and through the crawlspace. Crawlspace Vents bring in hot humid air in the summer. Most cooler surfaces such as sheet metal ductwork, copper pipes, steel beams, metal post jacks, and even insulation will condensate due to the ventilation in the crawlspace. The "sweating" of the ducts and metal surfaces will cause rust over time. Have you ever seen your air ducts on a hot and muggy day? They are sweating just like you are outside.

Wet or Corroded HVAC Ducts are also a health concern. The main components of house dust, which will collect in a duct system, include fabric fibers, skin cells, starch fragments and other organic debris. The combination of organic debris within a duct system with moisture (indicated by rusty ducts or duct registers) indicates a possible risk of mold or bacterial hazards within the air conditioning or heating system. Since blowing air through the system can pick up and distribute these hazards to occupants of the home, wet or previously-wet duct work is a potential health hazard to the homeowners.

Many homeowners will wrap their ducts with fiberglass insulation in an effort to stop the condensation. While this may work in stopping some of the crawl space condensation, it does not address the real problem. Plus, the moisture in the insulation will possibly harbor mold colonies. These mold spores are then transferred to the upper levels through the seams and holes in the duct work. The only sure method to prevent rust on duct systems, pipes, beams, and jacks is to dry the crawlspace permanently.

No one has more expertise in drying crawl spaces permanently than American Basement Solutions. Give us a call @ 1-877-409-2837 for a FREE ESTIMATE or visit our website @ www.americanbasementsolutions.com/crawlspace-repair.html

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.
Share/Save/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Monday, May 4, 2009

EZ Breathe cannot pump water




I recently was on a call where I ran into an EZ Breathe Ventilation System in a crawlspace. This is not a review of that ventilation system. I just wanted to show the ignorance of installing this system without addressing the water problems occurring in the home.

I do not know who installed this EZ Breathe Ventilator in this crawlspace, but they did a poor job of securing the system, and completely did not address the real problem in the home. There were 2 sump pumps installed next to the system of which neither were operating due to installation error. These 2 sump pumps had no drainage installed to divert the water over to the sump pumps causing the entire crawlspace to back up with water until it poured over the top of the lid. The sump basins were not drilled with holes to allow water infiltration from the sides either. The sump basin in the bottom left hand corner had floated up out of the ground about 14 inches. The other sump pit was installed at an angle throwing the pump against the sidewall of the pit causing the float to stick and the pump to malfunction. They threw in a couple of pits, pumps, propped up a EZ Breathe and left. The entire crawlspace has flooded several times since their installation. You can see the "tub" ring of mud at different layers on the EZ Breathe system. There really was no point in installing this ventilation system UNTIL the water problem was addressed properly.

The purpose of writing this post is to warn homeowners of just a simple pump and EZ Breathe solution. If your crawlspace floods, you will need more than this "quick fix". I doubt this occurs all the time, but watch out for this type of solution. Give us a call 1-877-409-2837 or SIGN UP ONLINE for a permanent solution to a wet crawlspace.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.
Share/Bookmark

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Plumbing Leaks in crawlspace


Plumbing leaks can wreak havoc on a floor structure. Water pipe breaks and sewage drain leaks are likely to occur in a home's lifetime. It isn't always the case, but homes with crawlspaces seem to be the largest culprit for plumbing leaks. I mainly see 2 problem sources for leaks, environment conditions of the crawlspace, and installation errors.

The crawlspace environment in most cases is very humid at certain times of the year. In the spring, rain water leaks into the crawl; and in the summer, hot, humid air is vented into the crawlspace. This humidity effects the plumbing in mainly 2 areas. The first is the condensation on the cooler surface such as your copper water pipes. If the excess flux is not properly wiped off of the joints of the copper pipe, then green oxidation will occur which is basically what rust is to iron. The humidity in the crawlspace will speed up this process causing pinhole leaks in the pipes. The second is minor, but I have seen it over and over again. The straps holding sewage pipes and water lines up off the floor are metal in some cases. This thin metal will rust and break causing the plumbing pipes to fall, sag, or bend; thus rupturing or breaking the pipe. This is why it is so important to encapsulate your crawlspace. Encapsulating and dehumidification will prevent a humid crawlspace in all climates.

Another problem source for crawlspace plumbing leaks is installation errors by plumbers. Crawlspaces are not ideal working conditions and "some" plumbers get a little sloppy in their installation. Pipes are not hung properly, pipes are "kinked" at an angle going through the floor, excess flux is not properly removed from joints, floor joists are cut in half for installation of sewage drains, and on and on and on the list can go. The picture above is 3 weeks after a plumber supposedly fixed a plumbing leak. Its actually still leaking as I'm writing this post. The plumber didn't get into the crawlspace to check if it was still leaking after he "supposedly" fixed it up top. He said he didn't need to go down there. Watch out Cincinnati!

Give us a call 877-409-2837 to evaluate your plumbing leak or SIGN UP ONLINE for a FREE Consultation.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,

Larry Ralph jr.
Share/Save/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Inspecting wet crawlspace during spring rains



















Here in the Midwest, we are finally starting get some decent spring rains in the past couple of weeks. I and many of our inspectors have experienced this in our crawlspace inspections. All through the winter, we are able to wear regular coveralls and knee pads to crawl around most people’s crawlspaces. The change from winter rains to spring rains usually occurs sometime around when the coveralls come off and the waders come on. The crawlspaces become wet and muddy.

It takes quite a bit of maneuvering to inspect a 24” crawlspace with 6 or more inches of water in it. Homeowners are always telling me I should put on a snorkel or scuba mask to get down there. Trying to squeeze under pipes and beams and keep the water from getting in your waders at your chest is always a delight. I will still take my digital camera down there even though most of the time if I open the door and show the homeowner, a flooded crawlspace access always says it all.

I always ask for any history on what has been done to the crawlspace or if the homeowner knows of any potential problems in the crawl space. Its always interesting to hear people tell you their crawlspace NEVER gets wet or puddles, but only a little dampness now and then. I usually will ask them how often they inspect their crawl. Most of the time they inspect their crawlspace 2x a year or less. I would love to be able to tell you that I take no joy in watching their faces when I open the door to the crawlspace and it’s full of water, but I do. It’s probably because I know now that they are fully aware of the problem and half the battle of convincing them of the problem is won.

If you have a wet crawlspace in the spring and can’t inspect it, give us a call @ 1-877-409-2837 or visit our website @ www.americanbasementsolutions.com/crawlspace-repair.html.

Thanks for reading the thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,

Larry Ralph Jr.

Share/Save/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Monday, April 20, 2009

Animal (cats & Dogs) Feces in your crawlspace



















Ok, ok, I know this is an unusual post, but I need to rant for a few minutes. I will come to anyone’s home and inspect their nasty crawlspace for free -- usually with a smile on my face. Nothing and I mean nothing turns that smile into a frown faster than when I find out they let their pets use the crawlspace as shelter. I love animals, don’t get me wrong, I have a chocolate lab named buddy and gray long haired cat named prissy. They are like family to my wife and I.
However; I do not let my pets run rampant in my crawlspace. If you do not realize that this is a bad idea, I’m here to tell you it’s a bad idea. Why, you might ask? The majority of crawlspaces have some type of vapor barrier (plastic) on the ground. The pet (dog or cat) will urinate or defecate on top of the plastic. You don’t have to be a rocket scientist to realize that this will stink, and it will cause your whole house to stink because up to 40% of the air you breathe on the first floor came from the crawlspace. The urine will sit on top of the plastic for months until it all evaporates. You would be surprised of the amount of homeowners that call me out to their home complaining of an odor coming from their crawlspace when they let their dogs and cats live down there.

In one crawl I inspected, I saw a decaying dog lying on the ground next to a pipe. Its head was suspended up on the pipe, because his collar got stuck on the pipe. I asked the lady about the dog and she said 3 years ago their dog went missing. Now this was very unusual, and the way he hung himself was even stranger. Just another reason to keep your pets out of your crawlspace.
Can you imagine crawling through urine puddles and feces to inspect a crawlspace? It’s not fun, in fact, if you knowingly let your dog or cat into your crawlspace, it’s rude. Now, I’m not complaining about the homeowner that opens their crawlspace access and the dog or cat gets down their accidentally. I’m just on a rant; I’ll be over it tomorrow.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts and rants of a crawlspace inspector,

Larry Ralph Jr.
Share/Save/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

White mold from lack of maintenance in crawlspace

I won’t say where this place of business is located; all I can tell you is that it is a donut shop. Yes, that’s right; people eat donuts no more than 4 feet above the floor in these pictures. The owner had plans to demolish the building and build a new retail operation. He was hoping he could use and abuse the building for as long as he could until this opportunity came to fruition. This attitude towards the current structure resulted in a lack of proper crawlspace maintenance for years. The crawlspace would flood, no pumping would occur. The duct work would rust and leak, drafting odors from the crawl into the eating area and the kitchen. White mold started growing, no proactive or reactive measure was taken. The floor structure started to rot and then started sinking and settling, no reinforcement was added.

One area in the kitchen started to rot through the sub floor so bad you could see the mold in the crawlspace, AND THEN we get the call. Every floor joist, sill plate, center beam, rim joist, band board, etc had to be removed and replaced. Proper moisture control techniques were taken to make up for the lack of maintenance for years. It was not easy or cheap.
The moral of the story is to maintain your crawlspace or structure even if you have other plans. The mold problems in your crawlspace will not go away even if you have different future plans than staying in that building. The problem can escalate sooner than you might think. It would have been 1/6 the cost to maintain this crawlspace versus rebuilding the entire floor structure. Even if you think your crawlspace has no problem, we can set you up on a yearly maintenance plan. We will come out and inspect your crawlspace thoroughly, check sump pump operation, and give you an inspection analysis. Call us today to properly maintain your crawlspace. Toll FREE 877-409-2837. Sign up for a free estimate or yearly inspection at our website www.americanbasementsolutions.com.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector
Larry Ralph Jr.
Share/Save/Bookmark
Share/Bookmark

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Crawlspace Termite Damage or Foundation Repair? You be the judge!

It always amazes me the extent of termite infestation and damage that can occur to the crawlspace of a home before a homeowner becomes concerned. Take for instance the inspection I ran today. A call came in from a homeowner complaining of “sinking floors” and he thought possibly the joists were either damaged or sagging. He claims on the phone he has never had a water problem. I go out to the customer’s home and speak with him before inspecting the crawlspace. He shows me ½” separation cracks in the drywall above almost every doorway along the middle hallway. The floor to the home slopes to the center anywhere from 2 to 4 inches. I realize at this point that he has either termite damage or excessive wood rot.
Normally I do not start “guessing” as to what is going on before I look at the crawl space, but I was fairly confident due to the condition of the floors and walls. I told the homeowner that he probably had wood rot or termite damage in the crawlspace. Based on his reaction, you would have thought I was an idiot for what I had just told him. He was convinced that the piers or the outside foundation had settled. I replied that maybe it could be something else, and I needed to look at it to know for sure; so we both walked outside to examine the outside foundation. On the outside, I asked him if he checked the crawl often. He admitted he hadn’t been down there in over 10 years. He also said that he couldn’t figure out how it was the foundation when there haven’t been any cracks in the brick. Of course, the foundation was his assumption. This is what I saw:
Crawlspace Center Beam with mud tunnels


I do not consider myself a “termite” expert. I always recommend a local pest control contractor to our clients when they have an active termite infestation. However, I do consider our company to be experts at repairing the damage that termites cause to structural wood components in crawl spaces and basement. I say all that to say that this is an extreme infestation of termites. I consider this case extreme because the homeowner is currently living in the premise and unaware of their presence. They have destroyed ¾ of the structural wood components in the home. I counted over 30 tunnel “hills” or mounds (it’s like an ant hill but with termite tunnels).
Needless to say, the homeowner was shocked by the pictures. The total damage was 40 feet of center beam replacement, 27 floor joist replacements, 40 feet of sill plate replacement, and some additional block piers. These are very difficult repairs to perform on your back so they are not light on the wallet. If you suspect your floors are moving or you have drywall cracks above doorways or above headers, give us a call before they damage gets out of hand and the repairs very costly. Call us at 1-877-409-2837 or visit us at The Crawl Space Company.  Sign up online for a FREE CONSULTATION.
Thanks for listening to the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.
Share/Save/Bookmark


Share/Bookmark