Basement Egress Windows

I recently completed an inspection on a local basement home where the homeowner had real concerns about the possibility of a "fire escape" for his children, all of which had bedrooms in the basement. Even in a walk-out basement there can be a real need for additional exits and egress to the outside. Anyone locked in a basement during a fire or other disaster face situations that could be resolved by installing proper basement escape windows, accesses, and egress wells.

Most basements have an inherent danger with regards to this anyway, due to the fact that furnaces, water heaters, and many wiring hazards exist already in a closed off basement. In many instances, it is or would be nearly impossible to make a quick exit to the stairs to escape. The stairs may also be on the other end of the home and you may have to pass by the fire source just to get to them. Basement Egress Windows or sometimes even proper area wells and operating basement windows can resolve this situation.

We here @ American Basement Solutions have looked at all of these situations and we can provide many solutions to giving you what your "peace of mind" desires. Sometimes we can achieve your goals simply by installing a larger operating basement slider window. If you have the exterior ground height, we can possibly even install a double hung window with tilt to the inside features. Other cases may require digging, and installation of a complete egress system on the outside. Our basement window systems vary from the very simple to the most complex depending on your needs, desires, and budget.

Another consistent problem is that builders installed only the cheapest basement casement windows. After a few years they rust, stick, and are inoperable, let alone the fact that they won't allow a normal sized child, much less an adult to pass through them. Many companies have even arisen that just install "glass block" in them. Glass Block does have the advantage of light transmission and durability, but Glass Block is dangerous in that there is no ventilation possible, and you totally shut off any possibility of escape.

All of these factors and more are why we have been and continue to be the "innovators" in assessing each basement window need and solving them. Call ABS today 1-877-409-2837 to learn more about our basement window and basement egress systems - We have the solutions.

Thanks for listening to the rambling thoughts of a basement inspector,
Larry Ralph Sr.

The Stinky Basement Guy

Upon arrival at a recent home, the door was answered by a young man who appeared all of the 5 years old that he said he was. His name was Shane. Shane called for his mother and yelled out that the "stinky basement" guy was here. Shortly with another child on her hip, Shane's mother came to the door and gave me the "rest of the story". Apparently, Shane has a fear of the space his parents call the "stinky basement", and for days, Shane had been told that the stinky basement man was coming to fix it. She said that her basement was dark, wet, moldy, and "stinky". I found all four to be true and was able to give Shane's mom a solution to her basement problems. While there, I also was able to talk to Shane about an old TV western whereby another little boy called "Shane" was able to conquer his fears and fight off Indiana attacks. Shane's parents had let this dark, dirty, moldy, stinky basement control their lives way too long and were now on their way to eliminating their fears. We bid a perimeter drainage system (AmeriGuard), a sump system (AmeriSump), as well as some of our basement finishing products. We were able to play "superhero" for a little while, and "stinky basement guy" was able to provide an estimate to give Shane's parents a basement environment that was no longer scary. A dry, clean basement not only is healthier, it can put to rest the fears of a 5 year old. Truth be told; however, once I met Dad, I do believe he was more scared of the stinky basement than Shane. Art Linkletter had another TV program that ran in the 50's and 60's which may sum it all up best - The name of that show was "Kids Say the Darndest Things", and that about sums it up for today.

Thanks for listening to the rambling thoughts of a stinky basement guy,
Larry Ralph Sr.

Do not spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls

One of the fastest growing crawlspace industries is spraying open cell or closed cell foam on crawlspace foundation walls. While I agree that foam is the most effecient type of insulation, it is rarely applicable in below-grade crawlspace environments. WHY, you might ask?. In the Midwest, crawlspaces are usually a below-grade foundation type. The foundation of a below-grade crawlspace is almost always susceptible to water and moisture intrusion from groundwater. So what, you might ask? Well, Spray foam insulation traps water and moisture in the block wall or between the wall and the foam. This moisture has nowhere to go but UP, especially since a building's air movement is upwards (Stack Effect). Up above the foundation is a sill plate, floor joist, bandboard, and subfloor. These are all wood components that are susceptible to wood rot and mold growth when the moisture content in the wood rises.

We are in homes on a daily basis that had their foundation sprayed years earlier and now are paying thousands of dollars in structural wood repair. Most wood rot in a crawlspace is noticeable early and most of the outside wood structure is saved by some type of moisture control system. When the walls and wood are covered with spray foam, no one can detect the problem early. Homeowners do not find out until the house starts sinking and and all of the plates and joists must be replaced. The spray foam will speed up the wood rot process.

The picture above and below shows wood that has rotted behind the spray foam.

Just to be clear, every crawlspace has different amounts of moisture intrusion and some with lower levels may never have wood rot occur. However, moisture intrusion can increase over a period of years as new development pushes water into older areas. So if you still choose to foam your walls, just know, you are always susceptible to wood rot.

In below grade crawlspaces, the proper way to insulate is to encapsulate the crawlspace and seal off outside air from entering the crawlspace. Next, condition the crawlspace. Rigid Foam board can also be installed to the walls for added insulation. For more information, see my post "How to insulate a crawl space - Encapsulate and Condition"

While the title to this post seems to suggest that you should never spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls, that is not always the case. Many solid, poured foundation walls are not as susceptible to water intrusion; therefore, they could be insulated with spray foam. See my post "Insulating above-grade crawlspaces - spray foam the walls" if you have a BONE -DRY (above-grade or solid poured foundation) crawlspace.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr

Crawlspace Insulating Series:
Cold Floors above a Crawl Space
Do not use fiberglass insulation in a crawl space
Foundation Vents are causing higher heating costs
How to insulate crawlspaces - Encapsulate and Condition
Insulating above-grade crawlspaces - spray foam the walls

Insulating above-grade crawlspaces - spray foam the walls

For those who do not know, a crawlspace above grade refers to a crawlspace with a ground floor that is level with the outside ground level. In many instances, these crawlspaces can be considerably dry. Since many crawlspace above grade are somewhat dry, the best method of insulating is to encapsulate with plastic and apply spray foam to the walls and exterior wood framing. I am a large advocate of the foam method of insulating; however, only when the conditions are optimal (a dry crawlspace). The biggest mistake a homeowner can make when insulating a crawlspace is to spray foam the foundation wall when it is wet or damp. The foam will trap the moisture in the foundation allowing it to rot the structural components such as the sill plates, floor joist ends, and bandboard. For more information on whether you should spray foam your crawlspace walls, see my post "Do not spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls".

The proper method to insulating a DRY crawlspace is to first encapsulate the ground moisture and seal off outside air. This is achieved by installing 20 mil plastic over the ground floor and up the walls by at least 12". (Warning: Encapsulation liners should normally be installed within 3" of the top of the foundation wall, but since the crawlspace foundation is dry and we will be applying spray foam to the walls, there will be no need to.) All the seams of the liner should be taped, and the wall plastic should be fastened and adhered to the foundation wall. Once the encapsulation liner is installed, all of the foundation vents should be insulated and sealed. Sealing the foundation vents prevents cold, freezing air from entering the crawlspace in the winter (cold air still drafts in even when the vents are closed); and hot, humid air from entering in the summer. This is by far the most important step in insulating a crawlspace, and if you didn't do anything else, you could look at 10% - 15% energy savings in a fully vented crawlspace by just encapsulating. Once encapsulation is finished, the crawlspace can be conditioned.

The next step would be to hire a contractor to spray the interior crawlspace foundation walls and wood framing with closed cell foam. They would spray from the bottom of the foundation wall covering some of the plastic up to the subfloor and between the floor joists.

This is by far the best method to insulating a dry, above-grade crawlspace; however, this requires hiring 2 separate contractors that will probably try to talk a homeowner out of using the other contractor. The encapsulation company will want to just encapsulate the crawlspace and add foam board to the walls. This system will work just fine, but it isn't the most effecient. The foam contractor will want to just insulate the walls and throw down a vapor barrier, which still leaves the vents open to bring in cold air in the winter, and does not prevent all moisture from evaporating into the structure. A homeowner will have to be insistent on this exact process when speaking with both contractors.

As I said before, this process will only work in an already dry crawlspace which anymore seems like a rarity. If there are ANY signs of moisture at all, the insulating process will be completely different. Please refer to crawlspace insulating series for more information.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.

Crawlspace Insulating Series:
Cold Floors above a Crawl Space
Do not use fiberglass insulation in a crawl space
Foundation Vents are causing higher heating costs
Do not spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls
How to insulate crawlspaces - Encapsulate and Condition

Do not use fiberglass insulation in a crawl space

Insulating a crawlspace with fiberglass has been the most common insulation approach in crawl spaces for decades. The floors or the walls of the crawlspace were insulated because the crawl is cold in the winter due to the open or closed vents. This cold air causes cold floors, freezing water pipes, and higher heating costs. While it does assist in insulating, it is not effecient at all. Fiberglass in a crawlspace joist system is very loose and cold air can pass up through and around it. Since fiberglass insulation is only effective in a closed cavity where air cannot pass through it, it does not function properly in between a floor joist whether or not the paper side is up or down. Installing the fiberglass on the crawlspace foundation walls has the same ineffeciency because air can pass in between the pieces.


I just touched on why fiberglass is ineffecient, but now I want to explain why I HATE fiberglass insulation in a crawlspace. Plain and simple, fiberglass insulation is mold candy. Fiberglass is the worst choice for a below grade crawlspace. Crawlspaces are generally damp and humid, and since they are ventilated, the outside air is always different from the inside air causing moisture
to condensate on nearly every surface. The insulation absorbs the moisture from the air and the ground like a sponge. The fiberglass saturates with moisture raising the moisture content in the wood and causing the insulation to fall. When the moisture content in the wood rises, mold starts to grow and wood rot occurs. The resin of the insulation and the paper face is made of organic material and is what building scientists consider to be "mold candy". In other words, mold loves to grow on the organic material in the insulation. Also, fiberglass has next to nil insulating value when it is wet.

Crawl Spaces SHOULD be insulated but NOT with fiberglass. According to building scientist and independent organizations such as Advanced Energy and Habitat for Humanity, the right way to deal with a crawl space is to seal off the ground floor and foundation with a durable vapor barrier and seal off the outside air completely. The next step would be to condition the crawlspace. Once this is done the crawlspace is just like another part of the building (i.e. basement). Now the walls could be insulated with foam board or spray foam depending on the outside grade of the crawlspace. In many cases, insulation will not even be needed because the cold air that is being sucked in through the vents will be sealed off. See my post "How to insulate crawlspaces" for more information.

It is a rare occasion that I am in a crawlspace with fiberglass where the fiberglass isn't wet, condensating, moldy, or falling down. I have a database of photos to prove it. Just look at some of them in the slideshow above. If you still want to insulate your crawlspace with fiberglass, please comment and tell me why.


Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a foundation inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr

Crawlspace Insulating Series:
Cold Floors above a Crawl Space
Foundation Vents are causing higher heating costs
Do not spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls
How to insulate crawlspaces - Encapsulate and Condition
Insulating above-grade crawlspaces - spray foam the walls

Cold Floors above my Crawl Space

Have you ever wondered why your feet freeze to your bathroom floor? If you live in an older home, have you ever felt a cold draft come up through you hardwood flooring? Did you install carpet over your hardwood floors because they were too cold in the winter? Ever wonder why your floors above your crawlspace are so cold in the winter? At this point you are probably expecting an answer on how to fix your cold floors. The answer IS NOT what you are expecting. DO NOT insulate your floor. Keep reading, it gets better.

Your crawlspace is vented to the outside air, and in the winter (in the north anyways) the outside air is very cold. In the North, a homeowner is “supposed” to close his vents in the winter. Many homeowners do not know they are supposed to close their vents or they just simply forget. If the vents are not closed, freezing cold air will enter the crawl space and work against the heating system all winter long. This will cause the floors to reach arctic temperatures. Even if you close your vents, you are still drafting a lot of cold air through them. The vent is just a thin sheet of metal overlapping one another. There is not a foundation vent on the market that seals completely and none of them are insulated.

So what is a homeowner to do? You have several options. If you are a smart, energy conscious homeowner, you will seal off the outside air, insulate your vents, and encapsulate your crawlspace. This can provide energy savings of up to 10%-20%, not to mention bring your floors to a comfortable temperature. Encapsulation also will dry out your floor framing, help prevent bug infestations, and improve indoor air quality. See my post “How to insulate crawlspaces – Encapsulate and Condition” for more information.

The most common but INCORRECT method has been to install fiberglass insulation in the floor. Fiberglass insulation will sweat in the summer and absorb all of the moisture that is in the air of the crawlspace. When the insulation is wet, it has no insulating value. This insulation will also cause mold to grow and wood to rot. See my post “Do not use fiberglass insulation in crawlspaces” for more reasons why.

If you are looking for a cheaper and effective insulation method, you could install 2” rigid foam board along the crawlspace perimeter walls and CLOSE your vents in the winter (like you were supposed to). Just know, this IS NOT the PERMANENT SOLUTION. The only permanent solution to cold floors is to encapsulate the crawl space. We can install the foam board as a first step toward encapsulation.

For more information on preventing cold floors above your crawlspace, visit the Crawslpace Encapsulation page on our website or for a FREE EVALUATION call us at 1-877-409-2837.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.

Crawlspace Insulating Series:
Cold Floors above a Crawl Space
Do not use fiberglass insulation in a crawl space
Foundation Vents are causing higher heating costs
Do not spray foam your crawlspace foundation walls
How to insulate crawlspaces - Encapsulate and Condition
Insulating above-grade crawlspaces - spray foam the walls

7 steps to a Dry a Damp, Wet Crawlspace

A wet or damp crawlspace is never an easy situation. Luckily, we have compiled some steps to help the average homeowner bring your home environment into comfort, security and compliance. The steps are a general rule, but your crawlspace may require only some or all of the steps to achieve a dry, healthy crawl space.

1. Downspout Extensions
2. Sump Pit and Pump Installed
3. Internal Perimeter Drainage Installed
4. Vapor Barrier Installed
5. AmeriBrite Encapsulation Installed
6. Crawlspace Conditioning
7. Dehumidification

To view this detailed plan of this 7 step process - Click Below
7 steps to a dry, healthy Crawl Space

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph

5 Great Home Repair Tutorial Sites

Guest post by Mary E. Ward

Completing home repair and remodeling projects yourself is a great way to save money. And, though most of us don’t have a lot of home repair knowledge when we purchase our first home, there are many ways to gain that knowledge over the years. Tackling a project for the first time can be a little overwhelming. But, luckily, in the last few years we’ve seen a great jump in the number of resources available to help us learn how to do many different types of home repairs. One of the best resources for learning how to tackle new projects is tutorials. Many websites offer step by step instructions for a wide variety of projects. You can print the tutorials out and keep them right by your side as you work. Here are some of the best sites to find home repair tutorials.

1. HGTV –HGTV has become a favorite source for all homeowners. But, did you know that you can find step by step tutorials for nearly every project you’ve seen completed on television? And, even if you haven’t seen them do it on HGTV, there may well be step by step instructions on their site. Their site is one of the best for instructions on decorating projects, such as faux finishes, revamping furniture pieces and creating your own art.
2. DIY – Another great home television network has a wide variety of step by step tutorials. Simply go to the area of the home where your project lies and you’ll find all the project tutorials available for that area of the home. I like the tutorials on this site because the pictures are really good.
3. This Old House – This show was likely the first home repair show, before there were channels dedicated to the home. Their site offers lots of tutorials with very clear, easy to follow instructions. Their tutorials also give you an estimate of the cost of the materials for the project and the amount of time you’ll spend.
4. Easy2DIY – This site offers a wide variety of tutorials on many different types of projects. You’ll find a handy calculator that helps you determine how much paint to buy based on the size of your room along with step by step instructions on everything from installing a disposer to laying a brick walkway. This site also offers great product demonstrations on tools you’ll need to get home repair jobs done.
5. Dummies.com – A site based on the “for dummies” book series, this site offers step by step instructions on many types of home repair, remodeling and basic home maintenance. Whether you need to seal concrete or fix a squeaky hardwood floor, you can find good instructions, with pictures on this site.
   

As anyone who owns a home knows, there’s always some project we need to undertake. But, with the number of tutorials available online to give us step by step instructions on how to complete our projects, there’s simply no longer an excuse for putting off one of those important projects.


Mary E. Ward blogs about how to study at the top construction management schools.

Sagging Floors above a crawl space

While the only true way to know why the floors above your crawlspace are sagging or sinking is to have it professionally inspected, I am going to outline a couple of the most common problems I see out in the field.

1. Floors are bouncy - This usually is noticed when walking across a floor, you feel the floor shake or you see cabinets start to shake or make noise as you walk. This is usually a sign that the floor joists are under-sized or over spanned from the beam to the outside wall, or the floor joists are damaged from wood rot or termite damage. In either case, additional beam support is needed in the middle of the floor joist span to properly support the floor.
2. Floors are sloping to the center of home - This is usually noticed when you walk from an outside wall to the center of the house. To know for sure, drop a marble along the outside wall and see if it rolls to the middle of the house. This is the result of some type of support problem with the center beam. The support columns or piers could have settled. The shims between the beam and column could have deteriorated or the beam itself could be deteriorating. Irregardless of the reason, the problem can be fixed. The beam can be raised and restored back to it's original position. This may requre a new beam, new piers, or new shims.
   
3. Floors are separating from baseboard trim - While this can occur along any wall, the most common occurrence will be along the exterior perimeter walls. On the outside walls, this is most always a problem with the sill plate. Another sign of a problem is with windows and outside doors sticking. The sill plate or the end of the joist sitting on the plate is most likely rotting or damaged by termites. The most common repair would be to replace or sister the joist, lift the home, and replace the sill plate. This will usually always bring the home to it's original position and snug the floor up to the trim.
   
4. Floors are wavy. - Unfortunately, this could possibly be several different problems. If you're lucky, it might only be that the center beam is over spanned between support piers causing it to sag up and down throughout the center of the home. This can be addressed by adding additional support piers or columns. On some occasions, the floor joists could be installed incorrectly with the crown of the joist up on one joist and down on the next. A couple of the joist could have had a knot in them and are now cracked causing a few of them to sag. Irregardless of whats causing this, we can repair your floors and bring them to their original position.

Most of these problems stated above are seen in homes built with conventional building standards over the past 50 years. Most of the problems and solutions above are related to the failure of the wood framing. In some cases, the foundation could be settling or sinking which requires a whole different type of solution. In homes 80 years or older, different techniques and solutions may be required to support the floor. Also in older homes, the floors might not have been built "level" to begin with. Having said all this, DO NOT ATTEMPT to fix your floors without a clear understanding of what is causing them to fail. Call an expert to give you a free evaulation and estimate. Give us a call @ 1-877-409-2837 for all your floor support needs.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a crawlspace inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.

In the Johnson County Fair in Indiana

From July 19th-25th, come visit us at our booth at Johnson County Fair in Indiana. Stop by the American Basement Solution's booth with any of your basement, crawlspace, and foundation questions. Our booth is educating the public on how we can help them have a drier, cleaner, healthier, more energy efficient home. For maps to the Johnson County Fairgrounds, click here. Visit the fairgrounds website for more information on all of the activities.

Visit us at the Hendricks County Fair in Indiana

From July 18th-25th, come visit us at our booth at the fairgrounds of Hendricks County Fair in Indiana. Stop by the American Basement Solution's booth with any of your basement, crawlspace, and foundation questions. Our booth is educating the public on how we can help them have a drier, cleaner, healthier, more energy efficient home. The Hendricks County 4-H Fairgrounds is located at the intersection of county road 200 east and east main street (aka Old US 36), across from the Danville post office. Visit the fairgrounds website for more information on all of the activities.

Chimney Leaning away from house

If your chimney is pulling away from your home, there are things you should consider before deciding on how to repair your leaning chimney. Your chimney is most likely the heaviest portion per square foot of your home. The depth, width, and type of footing that the chimney sits on will vary based upon location and the builder. Most footings should be connected into the home's foundation, but some are not. So, when a house is built on expansive or unstable clay soils, the first part of the foundation to settle is typically the footing under the chimney. As a chimney settles, it starts to tilt away from the house. To determine the amount of settlement, one can look at the gap between the chimney and the house. It is usually greater at the top and smaller at the bottom.

When the chimney footing is sinking, it not only decreases the value of your home, it also creates a serious safety hazard. The weight of a chimney can cause faster settlement, and the problem usually becomes worse. There are many methods of repair, but only one is cost effective and a permanent solution.

Leaning Chimney Repair Methods

If you look to hire a contractor to fix your leaning chimney, you will probably hear several differing opinions. A contractor might tell you he will strap the chimney to the house with cables or steel straps to hold the chimney in place. This might sound good, but it is not. This does not address the problem of the footing settling, and will only result in the roof or framing structure "racking" towards the chimney. Some contractors will want to tear the whole thing down and build a new one. This is expensive, takes a long time, and is very invasive. It's also completely unnecessary.

The right contractor will address the actual problem and provide a solution of driving steel piers into the earth until adequate soil density is reached. Steel piers are minimally invasive. It's always cheaper to install steel piers than to rebuild a chimney. While it varies depending on your structure, usually chimney repairs with steel piers take a day or two.

If you need chimney repair due to a cracked, falling, or leaning chimney, please visit our Foundation Repair section on our website, or call us @ 877-409-2837.

Thanks for reading the rambling thoughts of a foundation inspector,
Larry Ralph Jr.